India’s North East Frontier - 2010


5th Mar 2010 - 20th Mar 2010  Duration: 15 days

Expedition Summary

India 1 2010
In November 2003, Colonel John Blashford-Snell led an expedition to the remote village of Riangmaw, deep in the jungles of Meghalaya, northeast India.

Nutritional surveys were carried out, much appreciated dentistry was undertaken by two members of the SES team, and the installation of a clean water supply to the village was successfully completed, with the assistance of the British charity, ‘Just a Drop’, whose aim is to provide clean, safe water and sanitation where it is most needed.


In 2006 the Scientific Exploration Society returned to make necessary repairs to the solar panel and pumping system at Riangmaw. At the same time we paid a visit to Riangmaw’s sister village of Langmar where we renovated the village school. Langmar has a similar water access problem.

In March 2010, by invitation of the villagers, Dr. John Davies of the Scientific Exploration Society, and one of the UK’s leading expedition doctors, will lead a return expedition into the Jungles of Riangmaw and Langmar villages, together with Mr. John R. Edwards of Tiger Mountain India as co-leader for operations and logistical support.

There will be several aims to the expedition and the Leaders may allocate team members a role(s) according to their expertise and interests. This is a unique opportunity to learn about the culture, lifestyle, animistic beliefs, history, and traditional methods of fishing and arts and crafts of a remote community.


Projects Envisaged


Water project. There has been a request from Langmar village for help and assistance in improving the access to their water, as we accomplished at Riangmaw. Currently, it is necessary for women and children to bring the water, daily, up from its current spring source in a deep gully; a particularly hazardous job during the long monsoon months from May to October each year. By courtesy of ‘Just a Drop’, we would raise the water to ground level so that it can be gravity fed to the village.

Malaria study. In 2003, Dr John Davies noted that most villagers appeared to be suffering from malaria. He wishes to conduct preliminary tests to determine the strain and vectors of Malaria and trial some treatments. A simple epidemiological study using spleen rates will enable the team to calculate the endemicity. The team will also look at blood films of as many of the villagers as possible to identify the strain of malaria – Vivax or mixed Pl.falciparum and Pl.Vivax and samples of mosquitoes to identify the vector – A.minimus or A.maculatris. There can then be a discussion with villagers about malaria prevention and vector breeding prevention.

Dentistry and Medical assistance and research into Traditional medicine. We will capitalise on the previous visits, with further dentistry (extractions) and medical provision extended to the Lingum tribal villagers.


Nutrient study. A repeat of the nutritional studies carried out in 2003 and 2006 will be conducted, particularly among the children.

Study of Fauna & Flora

Elephant census. Although often heard trumpeting, due to the density of the vegetation most cataloguing is recorded by their tracks. The forests teem with animals.

Ornithology. There is an abundance of birdlife.

School project. The village primary school is staffed by local teachers who are enthusiastic and speak good English. The children attend the village school if they are not needed to work in the fields and then, if their parents can afford it, some progress to secondary school in Shillong where they are taught by Catholic missionaries. Several villagers who have previously benefited from this system regularly return to their families in the village and assist them financially. Some of them returned in 2003 and 2006 to welcome us to the village and help to translate.

During the 2006 visit the team members set about brightening up the little one room Primary school at Langmar with a lick of paint. In March 2010 it is our intention to supply the school with essential equipment and supplies in order to revitalise the facility.

India 2 2010

India 3 2010

Itinerary


The team will fly to Kolkata where we will spend one night. After an early flight to Guwahati the following morning, we will drive up to Shillong, (altitude 1496m) and spend two nights at the Pinewood Hotel (a pleasant old colonial style building with coal fires in the bedrooms!) and meet our local support team. Mike Nampui, who came on the reconnaissance expedition in 2001 and was again with us for the main expedition in 2003, will be joining us. Mike is a conservationist with an excellent knowledge of wildlife.

A day will be spent in Shillong purchasing materials for the ‘Just a Drop’ water project, as well as for any other construction works and the primary school. There will be an opportunity to look around this historic old town and to witness the ancient and unique archery contests. After a day in Shillong you will travel six hours to the remote and beautiful Shallang and on to Langmar – a challenging and exciting ride. In 2003 & 2006 it took 36 hours to reach Riang Maw and a further 3 hrs trek into Langmar. Robust but ancient Indian jeeps, a near copy of the famous Willy’s design, bounced and revved their way up and down 1 in 4 slopes and through rivers. Often it was only with everyone pushing and pulling that the incredible little vehicles got through. A 3 ton truck carrying the water supply equipment became stuck in a river and was only extracted by creating a tow rope of twisted vines.

The team will spend the next eight days staying either in the village houses or tented camp, and working with the community.

The team return to Shillong in a day, over nighting at the Pinewood Hotel again before flying to Kolkata the following day.

An extension of six days to travel into the remote and virtually unvisited northern Naga Hills is offered.

The extension begins with a night at Kaziranga National Park in Assam where you will have the opportunity to view and study its rich and diverse wildlife such as the Indian One Horned Rhinoceros, Elephant and the elusive Bengal Tiger.


Historically, Nagaland has always been closed to foreigners, besides a few missionaries and British political officers who first ventured into the fringes of Nagaland in 1874. Other than the period of the Japanese invasion of India, it was only recently that foreigners were allowed into Nagaland. The Japanese invaded from their bases in occupied Burma during the famous "Battles of Kohima and Imphal" (1944) during which the British forces stood their ground. It was during this particular time that the Nagas showed their loyalty and support to the British troops, ably assisting them in forcing the Japanese to retreat.

Nagaland is bound by Assam in the West, Myanmar in the East, Arunachal Pradesh and part of Assam on the North and Manipur in the South. The state is inhabited by 16 major tribes, along with several sub-tribes.

Each tribe is distinct in character in terms of customs, language and their colourful and intricately designed costumes, jewellery and beads. The traditional ceremonial attire is awe inspiring - colourful spears and daos decorated with dyed goat's hair; headgear made of finely woven bamboo interlaced with orchid stems and adorned with boar's teeth and hornbill's feathers; elephant tusk armlets. In days of yore, every warrior had to earn each of these items through acts of valour to wear them. Music is an integral part of the Naga tribal life; folk songs eulogizing ancestors, the brave deeds of warriors and traditional heroes, and poetic love songs immortalizing ancient tragic love stories.

The remote northern Naga tribal hills, which we will be visiting, are inhabited by the warrior tribe of the northern Konyaks, famed for their former headhunting prowess. The visit will be a reconnaissance into a possible future expedition for a malaria investigation and nutrition programme.

Detailed Daily Itinerary

Day 1: 5th March 2010: Fly London-Kolkata (cost of flight excluded).

We suggest flying with Emirates, Heathrow-Kolkata-Heathrow.

Day 2 6th March 2010: Arrive Kolkata.

You will be met on arrival and transferred to the Kenilworth Hotel.

In the afternoon you will be taken on a half day sightseeing tour of Calcutta .

In the 17th Century there was a group of three villages along the river Hugli; Kalikata, Govindapur and Sutanuti, where communities of weavers lived. Kolkata today is one of the largest cities in the world with a population of 10.92 million (1997), one of the largest ports in the East, and the main outlet for produce of West Bengal and neighbouring states. The city was founded in 1690, by the remarkable English merchant trader, Job Charnock. In 1772 it became the capital of British administration in India with Warren Hastings as the first Governor of Bengal. Some of modern Calcutta 's most impressive colonial buildings date from the years that followed.

The site was particularly holy to Hindus. According to legend, King Daksa was enraged when his daughter, Kali, married Siva. He organised a Yajna (grand sacrifice) to which he invited everyone in the kingdom - except his son-in-law. Kali was distraught to hear that her husband had been so insulted by her father and threw herself on the sacrificial flames. Siva in turn arrived on the scene to find his wife's body already burnt. Tearing it from the flames, he started his dance of cosmic destruction. All the other gods, witnessing the devastation that Siva was causing in his anguish, pleaded with Vishnu to step in and end the chaos. Vishnu intercepted him with his flailing Chakra (a discus-like weapon) and, in order to dislodge Kali's body from Siva's shoulder, chopped it into fifty one pieces, which were flung far. The place where each one fell became a place of pilgrimage. The toe of Kali's right foot fell at Kali Ghat. Thus, Kalikshetra or Kalikata gave the city its name.

The city was built around Fort William , with a huge Maidan surrounding it. The main building on the Maidan is the Victoria Memorial, a massive domed building of white marble which houses a collection of Victoria memorabilia, as well as objects and documents related to the history of Bengal . In the park are statues of Queen Victoria, Lord Curzon and other figures of the British Raj. The Race Course, opened in 1819, is the largest in the East. In its central oval are the Calcutta Polo Club grounds where the game has been played since 1861. Rabindra Sadan, a concert hall named after Rabindranath Tagore is active all year round. The Academy of Fine Arts has a collection of old textiles, miniatures, Mughal swords, Tagore memorabilia and modern Bengali art. St. Paul's Cathedral, a tall white Gothic building with a stained-glass window by Burne-Jones, was consecrated in 1847. Near the Cathedral are the Birla Planetarium and the Nehru Children's Museum, which displays a collection of toys from all over the world and two remarkable dioramas presenting the Ramayana and the Mahabharata in 61 scenes. Chowringhee, once a jungle path leading to the Kali temple and the Esplanade symbolise Calcutta 's past grandeur with late 19th century buildings. Raj Bhavan (Government House) was built in 1803. Towards the river are the Assembly House, the old Town Hall and the High Court built in 1872 on the model of the Gothic belfry of Ypres in Flanders . St. John's Church , built in 1784, is reputed to have the best organ in India . In its garden stands a monument to the victims of the 'Black Hole' tragedy. Writers Building, built in the late 19th century, is today the seat of the West Bengal Government. The present General Post Office is located on the site of the first Fort William and a plaque near the main entrance marks the location of the 'Black Hole of Calcutta'.
Overnight Kenilworth Hotel, Kolkata.

Day 3 7th March 2009: Fly Kolkata to Guwahati & drive to Shillong, Meghalaya (4 hours).

After an early breakfast, you will be transferred to Kolkata airport to board flight 9W 201, departing at 10:15 hrs and arriving in Guwahati at 11:25 hrs (subject to change).

You will be met on arrival and driven to Shillong, the capital of Meghalaya. This North Eastern State, known as "the abode of clouds", was awarded statehood only in 1972, previously having been part of Assam. A hilly region, inhabited by three tribal groups, this temperate land was popular with the British. Your four hour drive is very scenic, through hills covered with pineapple and betal plantations and pine forests.

Stop for lunch at the Orchid Lake Resort at Umiam, 16 kms from Shillong.

Overnight at the Hotel Pinewood, Shillong.

Day 4 8th March 2010: In Shillong.

Spend today exploring Shillong which is set amidst a landscape of slopes covered with heather, orchids and forests of pine, with quick flowing streams and majestic waterfalls. The town spreads on hills covered with English-style country houses, the largest being Raj Bhavan, the summer residence of the governor of Assam and Meghalaya. There are many interesting places to visit - the placid Ward's lake, the museum of History and Ethnography and St. Paul's Cathedral, one of the region's oldest places of Christian worship.

Overnight at the Pinewood Hotel, Shillong.

Day 5 9th March 2010: Drive from Shillong to the village of Shallang (6 hours).

After breakfast, we will drive to the remote and beautiful village of Shallang.

Overnight in tents and/or local village houses, Shallang.

Day 6 10th March 2010: Jungle drive and trek to Langmar via Riangmaw Village – all day trek.

After breakfast, trek or drive towards the Langmar village area. This is a fairly tough jeep or truck ride, or a trek through the remote Riangmaw jungle area, and could take one or even two days.

The village of Langmar is inhabited by the remote Lingum tribe who will offer the SES team their generous hospitality as very welcome ‘return’ visitors. In order to gain access to the area, it is probable that the villagers will have to reconstruct the track especially prepared for the original SES expedition in November 2003.

Within this jungle area, there are documented reports of a “lost tribe of hairy men”. If authentic, this could be an undocumented hunting and gathering tribe, possibly living within the forest of Meghalaya, in some of the deepest limestone caves in South-east Asia.

A tented Base Camp will be set up with full amenities for the next 7 nights.

Day 7 11th March 2010: At Langmar Village.

Spend the day meeting the villagers and begin to gain knowledge of their culture, lifestyle, history, methods of fishing, trapping with snares and traditional arts and crafts.

We will also begin conducting community work.

Overnights Camping, Langmar.

Days 8-12 12th – 16th March 2010: Conducting community work at Langmar and surrounding villages.

Having assessed the water situation, a team under the supervision of both foreign and local engineers will set to work on bringing the water source from the “spring” up to “ground level” in order to be safely gravity fed to the villagers.

Other worthwhile and rewarding projects supervised by Dr. John Davies will be undertaken with plenty of subjects to choose from by the expedition team members who will be able to divide into groups.

PROJECTS ENVISAGED:
• Malaria study through blood samples etc.
• Dentistry and Medical
• Nutrient study of the villagers - especially the children.
• Study of Fauna & Flora.
• Elephant census through sightings and/or interview of forest staff.
• Ornithology.
• School project - pens, pencils etc and painting of school building etc.

Overnights Camping, Langmar.

Day 13 17th March 2010: Trek and drive back to Shillong.
We will break camp in the very early morning and trek and drive back to the road head from where we will drive to Shillong.

Overnight at the Pinewood Hotel, or similar, Shillong.

Day 14 18th March 2010: Drive to Guwahati (4 hours) and fly to Kolkata.

In the morning we will drive to Guwahati from where the main group will fly to Kolkata.

You will be met on arrival and transferred to the Kenilworth Hotel for overnight stay.

Overnight Kenilworth Hotel, Kolkata.

Day 15 19th March 2010: Fly Kolkata to Heathrow.

You will be transferred to the airport to board your homeward flight.

EXTENSION PROGRAMME INTO NAGALAND


Day 1 (14) 18th March 2010: Drive from Shillong to Kaziranga National Park , Assam (6 hours).

After an early breakfast, we will drive six hours to Kaziranga, down through the lush green hills of Meghalaya before re-entering the north-eastern State of Assam. The drive across the Assamese plains, passing through rich forest and lush tea gardens, brings you to the famous Kaziranga National Park , 217 kms from Guwahati, the capital of Assam .

Check into Wildgrass Lodge, situated just outside the Park.

Kaziranga National Park lies in the floodplain of the Brahmaputra , sloping very gradually from east to west. The Karbi Anglong Hill ranges rise around the Park, pressing it against the great flood of the Brahmaputra flowing as its northern boundary. The many rivulets flowing down the ranges bring with them rich silt and sand which spills into small lakes known as `bheels', thus silting them up to make swamps and marshes. Alluvial grasslands rise to alluvial savannah woodlands; and then, as the lands loose their moistness with height, the Park rises to mixed deciduous forests and, finally, to tropical evergreen forests.

Overnight at Wildgrass Lodge, Kaziranga.

Day 2 (15) 19th March 2010: Morning Wildlife Safari. Drive from Kaziranga , Assam , to Mon, Nagaland (6 hours).
Enjoy and early morning wildlife safari, either on trained elephants or by jeep. The main attraction of Kaziranga, the great Indian one-horned rhinoceros for whose protection the Park was established in 1908 is very easy to see. Rhinos graze like domestic cattle in the grasslands and marshes around the Park and can be spotted belly-deep in the marshes, chomping contentedly on succulent grasses. The other wildlife encountered here includes wild elephants, tiger, wild buffalo, gaur, swamp deer, sambar, hog deer, wild boar and a large number of interesting birds.

After breakfast, we will begin our drive towards the Nagaland border and into the northern Nagaland Mon district. Our drive will take us via Jorhat and the border town of Sonari .
The Mon district is rich in culture and tradition with a heritage dating back to the stone age. This is the homeland of the fierce former head hunting Konyak tribe.

The Konyaks are of Mongoloid origin and before the advent of Christianity they were believers of “Animism”, worshiping the elements and different objects of nature. The Konyak society is a patriarchal society and is dominated by male chauvinism. The eldest son of the family usually inherits the paternal property. The male members take all major decisions regarding the village, society etc. although women do usually partake in the discussion in the meetings. However, with modern day education trends are changing with more liberal thinking and women now being treated as equal to men in most respects. The Konyak speak different dialects in different villages. The Konyak are hospitable in nature, warm hearted and fond of merry making.

They celebrate mainly two ancient festivals, namely “Aolingmonyu” and “Laoongmo”. The Aolingmonyu is celebrated after the sowing of the seeds in the spring and hopes to evoke the blessings of the God Yongwan for a successful harvest for the year. “Laoongmo” is celebrated in the harvesting period of August each year.
Overnight in Guest House accommodation, Mon.

Day 3 (16) 20th March 2010: Drive from Mon to the Indo–Myanmar border Village of Longwa and overnight at the village of Shengha Chingnyu.
Our drive of approximately 4 hours will take us east through the remote Naga hills to the Indo/Myanmar border village of Longwa , the biggest village in the district.

The whole village is controlled by the Angh (King), whose jurisdiction extends up to Arunachal Pradesh, and the village council Chairman. An interesting highlight is that one half of the Angh’s house is within Indian territory and the other half lies in Myanmar . The Angh has 60 wives!

Longwa village, Nagaland. Indo–Burmese border.

In the afternoon, we will drive almost parallel to the border to the extremely remote village of Shengha Chingnyu.

This beautiful northern part of Nagaland was not brought under any Civil Administration until 1948. Vast areas in this remote region were not administered at all even by the British and for years the maps were a simple white blank with words such as “un-administered” or “Relief Data Incomplete”.

There are only seven “Kings” or “Anghs” in the Mon District and Shengha Chingnyu is one. An Angh rules his village as well as subordinate villages and, being the sole authority, is held in the highest esteem by his villagers.

We will sleep in the Angh’s house and enjoy true Naga hospitably and an evening meal around a camp fire.

Day 4 (17) 21st March 2010: Drive from Shengha Chingnyu to Chenwetnyu Village .
We continue our drive and walk along the trails and road following the border of the remote Naga Hills . Here you will have the opportunity to enjoy chance encounters of smiling and friendly villagers going to their fields or trading their wares along the way. Photography opportunities are endless.
We will make our base here for the next two days.

Home of the Chief (Angh) Shengha Chingnyu
Evening around the camp fire. A Naga dance by the village will be requested.
Overnight in the Angh’s dormitory, Chenwetnyu Village .

Day 5 (18) 22nd March 2010: Chenwetnyu Village - Chenmoho Village - Chenwetnyu Village.

Today we will drive and walk and explore neighbouring villages such as Chenmoho Village. As we travel deep into this remote part of Nagaland we will find the most unique villages being the last of the traditional villages still retaining their old world charm with bamboo walls and palm leaves thatching.

Konyak Naga Head hunters of old
The Konyak Naga tribe is considered among the fiercest tribes in the world. The Konyak who inhabit the Mon district, are a Naga tribe known for their valour and head-hunting practices. The head hunting was stopped in 1960s. They are recognized among other Naga people by their tattoos, which they have all over their face and hands.

Many of the Naga folk you will have met during the past few days will have been head-hunters of yore. Perhaps around the camp fire at Chenwetnyu Village tonight we may tempt some them to recall some of their stories.

Overnight in the Angh’s dormitory, Chenwetnyu Village.

Day 6 (19) 23rd March 2010: Drive from Chenwetnyu Village via Mon to Thengal Tea Estate, Jorhat, Assam. (6 hours).

Today we say our farewells to newly made friends and drive back down to the Assamese Plain via Mon Town . At Mon we will go to the local police station to ‘sign out’ with our restricted Area Permits (RAPs) before continuing down to the Assamese Plain to Jorhat.
En-route we will visit the ruins of the Ahom kingdom at Sibsagar. In 1228, the Ahoms, a Buddhist Tai tribe from North Thailand, entered Assam, defeated the Kamrupa ruler and established a kingdom which came to be called Assam, with its capital at Sibsagar. The Ahoms adopted the Hindu, Vaishnava religion and the kingdom rapidly became a powerful one. The Mughals sent expeditions to subdue”the rats of Assam ”, without success, in 1478, 1553 and 1672. Progressively, Assam expended east, establishing its authority over the neighbouring Naga Kingdom of Chachar, and destroying its capital, Dimapur, in 1536.

Overnight at the Thengal Tea Garden Estate, Jorhat , Assam .

Day 7 (20) 24th March 2010: Drive to Jorhat airport (1 hour) or Guwahati airport (5 hours) for the flight to Kolkata.

After breakfast we will drive to the airport for our flight to Kolkata.

We will be met upon arrival and transferred to the Kenilworth Hotel for overnight stay.

Day 8 (21) 25th March 2010: Kolkata to Heathrow.
Transfer to the airport for the flight to Heathrow.

Expedition Details

Duration: 15 days

Main Tour dates: 5th – 19th March 2010.

Nagaland extension dates: 18th – 25th March 2010.

Price: The cost of the Expedition is £2495.00. This includes all accommodation, all food (apart from Kolkata and Shillong where lunch and dinner are not included), and transport.

Nagaland extension costs: £904.00.

Domestic airfare: are shown separately and are (approximately) £159.00 subject to change.

International flights: Are not included and is the individual responsibility of all clients. May we suggest flying Emirates Airlines which conveniently arrives into Kolkata in the early morning.

Single Supplement: if you wish to have your own hotel rooms at the Kenilworth Hotel – Kolkata x 2 nights and the Pinewood Hotel – Shillong x 3 nights, the single supplement will be £250.00 (approx).

For those joining the extension into Northern Nagaland, the additional single supplement payable for Kenilworth Hotel, Kolkata x 2 nights, Wildgrass Lodge, Kaziranga x 1 night, and Thengal Tea Garden Estate (Jorhat) would be £375.00.

We will try and avoid single supplements unless requested.

Personal, medical and travel insurance: Again, this is the individual responsibility of all clients and it is imperative that it is taken out prior to departure.

Extension into Northern Nagaland: 6 days, Kaziranga to Kolkata. The cost of this optional extension will be £904.00 with a single supplement of£210.00 payable for the Wild Grass Lodge, Kaziranga and Thengal Tea Garden Estate, Assam

For more detailed information please contact us.

India 4 2010
Preliminary Expedition details

Duration: 15 days

Main Tour dates:
5th-19th March 2010

Nagaland extension dates:
18th-25th March 2010

Price: The cost of the Expedition is £2495.00. This includes all accommodation, all food (apart from Kolkata and Shillong where lunch and dinner are not included), and transport.

Nagaland extension costs: £904.00.

Domestic airfare: are shown separately and are (approximately) £159.00 subject to change.

Excludes: International flights and insurance (these can be arranged by request) and personal spending money

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